China Garden changing ownership

We just ate there for dimsum lunch today, and noticed a sign in the windows indicating that the new owner will be "VIP Seafood Restaurants, Inc." Sorry to see the ownership change! Even with the splashier Capital Seafood opening up recently, China Garden was still my go-to place for dishes like geoduck and peking duck (no relation). I guess the writing was on the wall, with the smaller crowds, and the new 10% discounts to try to entice diners. And it's not like the business is out of business, yet. Hopefully VIP Seafood Restaurants is the same entity that owns VIP Harbor Seafood in West Los Angeles, a second floor eatery off Barrington and Wilshire, that was similarly serviceable, if not in the same league as the outposts throughout Monterey Park and Rowland Heights. And hopefully they try competing on quality, rather than price. Irvine's Capital is certainly more vulnerable on the quality and authenticity score.

Farewell New Shanghai (Closing Night) - Irvine, CA

Lo, there do I see my dinners. Lo, there do I see my breakfasts, my brunches, and my lunches. Lo, there do I see the line of my meals back to the beginning. Lo, they do call to me. They bid me remember the dishes of New Shanghai in the halls memory, Where their taste may live forever. - Parody of the funeral chant from the 13th Warrior Close to one month ago, New Shanghai, my favorite spot for late night eats in Irvine, closed its doors. Having been tipped off earlier by the lovely Rasa Malaysia, Cat and I assembled a group of her graduate student friends, New Shanghai devotees one and all, for a final, blowout meal. (Read my review of New Shanghai on Chubbypanda.com) (Last call.) I don't know what it was that made the food so wonderful that night. Maybe it was the nostalgic melancholy we felt as we carefully savored every dish, enshrining them in our memories. It could also have been that the cooks at New Shanghai, knowing that this was their final opportunity to show us their skills, decided to pull out the stops in one last blaze of glory. Whatever the cause, everything we feasted on was authentic and delicious down to the core. (Green Onion Pancake) Moist, flakey, and al dente, this simple Green Onion Pancake tasted like the culmination of all the green onion pancakes I'd consumed at New Shanghai before. (Sizzling Satay Beef) The Sizzling Satay Beef, which was one of my favorite dishes, arrived vibrant and bursting with flavor. The Chinese satay sauce seemed thicker and stronger than I'd remembered, as if the dish was trying to sear itself into my mind. (Kung Pao Chicken) Cat's usual order of Kung Pao Chicken, which the owner's wife brought out to us without being asked, was amazing. There are two flavors that are central to classic Sichuan cuisine; ma and la. Ma is a numbing sensation in the mouth and on the lips, usually brought about by the use of Sichuan peppercorns. The numbing helps prepare the mouth for piquant flavors by acting as an anesthetic against very spicy food, so that the flavor added by the seasonings can be enjoyed. La is a burning sensation added through a number of fresh and processed chili pepper products. In addition to heat, the peppers also contribute layers of complexity, which the ma component makes discernible. Normally, in Chinese restaurants in the West, the la component in Sichuan dishes is toned down and the ma component is practically nonexistent in order to accommodate the palates of customers who might not know how to appreciate Sichuan cuisine. Since this was the close of New Shanghai's long and successful career in Irvine, I think the cooks finally felt free to go back to China on our unsuspecting tongues. I have never had a Kung Pao Chicken in the States as authentic as the one I had that night. So painfully good! (Scalded Fish) The Scalded Fish, which the owner's wife recommended to me as one of their signature dishes, was equally deadly. Thick filets of catfish swam in a crimson sea of broth flecked with green onion slices and chili flakes, and redolent with Sichuan peppercorn. The occasional piece of leek broke the fiery surface like the emerald fin of an herbaceous shark, prowling the blood red depths. I was delighted with this dish, but dismayed that my first time tasting it would also be my last. (Stir-fried Chinese Mustard Greens with Pork) After the onslaught of Sichuan cuisine, the Stir-fried Chinese Mustard Greens with Pork brought gentle relief to our mouths. The thin mung bean sheets sashaying through the dish shimmied across my tortured tongue and down my throat like the cool, silken fingers of a skilled masseuse. Another recommendation from the owner's wife, who wanted to make sure our meal was memorable. (Eggplant in Garlic Sauce) One of Cat's friends was desperate to taste New Shanghai's Eggplant in Garlic Sauce again, but couldn't remember what it was called. In the end, she had to describe it to the owner's wife, using me as an interpreter. Rich, sweet, and mildly spicy, it was a hit at the table. I'd forgotten how much I enjoyed this dish until Cat's friend ordered it. (XLB) The most surprising item I tasted that night were the Xiao Long Bao, which arrived last. In my review of New Shanghai, I'd warned my readers away from ordering them due to their dryness and the fact that they often arrived broken. This night, New Shanghai redeemed their Xiao Long Bao beyond measure. With thin, resilient skins, balanced seasoning, and tender meat filling swimming in juice, the Xiao Long Bao were simply wonderful. It felt like the restaurant's way of saying goodbye. So long, New Shanghai, and thanks for all the food. New Shanghai 5408 Walnut Ave # B Irvine, CA 92604 1-949-733-3836 *** Don't be too sad, though. New Shanghai's delicious dishes live on right across the shopping center at Hsin Hsin Shao Mai Deli, which is owned by the same family and now staffed by the same cooks. For the full story behind the move, a breakdown of the dishes offered at Hsin Hsin Shao Mai Deli, and a critique of how some of my old favorites measure up in their new home, read my review of Hsin Hsin Shao Mai Deli at Chubbypanda.com.

New Shanghai Closing Soon

I was told by the boss at New Shanghai that the restaurant is sold and that it will be closed end of February. I don't know if the new owner will take over the restaurant and runs it as is or it will be closed down and reopened as another new restaurant. Either way, I am very sad because New Shanghai is definitely one of my favorite Chinese restaurants in Irvine. In fact, it's the only Shanghainese restaurant around that serves cheap and very decent food. For those who love New Shanghai, the clock is ticking, so go there and load up on the special menu items on weekends or for lunch/dinner. I love their weekend brunch menu and here are some of my favorites: Yau Char Kway/Chinese Doughnut. This goes very well with their soy bean milk. Fiery hot noodles soup. Wine and sweet rice ball dessert. Jiao Zhi/dumplings. New Shanghai 5408 Walnut Ave # B Irvine, CA 92604 Open until midnight every night Other review: Chubby Panda's Super Post

China Garden, Irvine

As much as I love cooking, I don't do it on a daily basis. When I don't cook, there are a few restaurants that I always frequent in Orange County, and one of them is certainly China Garden. Serving authentic Cantonese cuisine (you have to know what to order though), China Garden has never failed my high expectations. If you would like to try out real Chinese food, here are some dishes that I strongly recommend. I am partial to soy foods and I love all kinds of tofu. One of my favorite dishes at China Garden is the above "Special Braised Bean Curd" dish. Deep-fried to perfection, these silky and soft tofu cubes are steeped in aromatic five-spice and star anise-flavored soy sauce. The taste is simply delightful. If you go to China Garden, don't miss out their fresh seafood, especially the fish. Like any typical Cantonese-style Chinese restaurants, China Garden offers a variety of live seafood such as Dungeness Crab, Alaska King Crab, live shrimp, and a few kinds of live fish. I love their live red cod. This fish is divine when it's cooked two ways--steamed and stir-fried. First, the fish head (trust me, it's delicious!) is chopped into small pieces, coated with flour, and fried. Then, they are tossed with ginger and scallions. I love this dish as it has enough wok hei--the breath of wok-- the essence of it comes through in this creation. Next, the body of the fish is steamed with soy sauce, ginger, and scallions. I am not sure about you, but I could just eat my steamed rice with that soy sauce alone! For vegetable dishes, I recommend their "Pan-fried String Beans with Minced Meat." This is a very popular Chinese vegetable dish; the crunchy string beans are lightly fried in oil and then tossed with minced pork. Seasoned only with salt, this is a simple but flavorful dish. All in all though, China Garden is a very good Chinese restaurant. Other dishes I recommend are: Salt and pepper crab or ginger and scallions crab Fried chicken Souffle with almond flavor (baked almond tea topped with a pastry crust) - A must-try! China Garden 14825 Jeffrey Rd Irvine, CA 92618 (949) 653-9988 Other review: China Garden Dim Sum - Monster Munching

Red Onion Cafe Closing

Why is it that the good die young? Why is it that sometimes, despite the best efforts of their regulars, mom & pop eateries with soul are forced to close their doors? Doesn't seem fair, does it. In one of my very first posts for Chubbypanda - The Epicurious Wanderer, I covered my favorite spot in Irvine for Taiwanese comfort food; the Red Onion Cafe. For over eight years, this cozy little restaurant tucked away in a corner of "Irvine's Chinatown" has served faithfully and well as my watering hole of choice for Taiwanese tasties. Thus, it's with a very heavy heart that I announce that the Red Onion Cafe's last day of business will be January 15th, 2007. The restaurant will not be reopening afterwards. According to the owner/manager, the family will be "taking a break" from the restaurant business. Although he mentioned the possibility that the family may open another restaurant in a different location at a later date, he sounded far from certain. I think it's fairly safe to say that this is probably your last opportunity to taste the cafe's homey fare. As such, I strongly encourage you to swing by sometime in the next week and sample their food before it's gone for good. Here are some of my favorite dishes: (Crispy pork fat goodness.) Deep Fried Chitterlings - Deep fried pork intestines dusted with a little salt and served with shredded cabbage and green onions. They're really bad for you, but incredibly delicious. Best sampled with a cold glass of Taiwan Beer. (Pouches of brothy goodness.) Xiao Long Bao (Little Steamer Dumplings) - The best in Irvine. Thin, chewy dumpling skins enclose juicy pork filling swimming in a perfectly seasoned sea of soup. You'll need to head to the San Gabriel Valley to find any that are better. (Cat's fud.) Orange Chicken Set - Cat's favorite meal here. The mildly spiced, deeply complex flavor of the orange chicken is something you won't find at Panda Express. It definitely deserves a try. (Like eating at a temple fair.) Snack Set - A trio of three popular Taiwanese street hawker snacks. These aren't the best I've ever had, but they're quite nice. In the upper left, a pork meatball soup with flavorful, springy meatballs and a soothing broth. In the upper right, a cylinder of mixed rice with dried shrimp, group pork, and shitake mushrooms topped with shredded Taiwanese pork jerky. In the center, a steamed, rice flour dumpling in a pool of sweet and spicy starch sauce and garnished with cilantro. The filling of the dumpling consists of ground pork, dried shrimp, and shredded bamboo shoots. (Scary looking, but tasty.) Baked Tomato Chicken Pasta - Despite its rather alarming color, this mild, cheesy pasta sits firmly in my comfort zone. Eating it always makes me think of home. (Little Panda's Favorite) Ham and Corn Pasta - I used to order this dish in Taiwan a lot as a child. Pasta in a creamy corn sauce with bits of ham. What could be better comfort food? The meal sets all come with a choice of complimentary desserts. I like them both. (I love all puddings.) Pudding - Inspired by flan, the Taiwanese version is gelatin-based, less rich, and less sweet. It's also a lot healthier for you. I really like these sorts of light desserts. (Hidden goodness.) Red Bean Custard - A coconut cream custard hides a base of sweetened red beans. It's more strongly flavored than the pudding. Other items to try are the Pork and Preserved Egg Rice Porridge, Fish Filet Rice Porridge, Water Dumplings, and the Clams Stir-fried in Thai Basil. Please stop by. It's not the best Taiwanese food in town, but for me it's very reminiscent of my childhood in Taiwan. I still can't believe it's going away... Red Onion Cafe 14805 Jeffrey Rd., Ste H Irvine, CA 92720 1-949-559-5888

Chubbypanda's Ten Best Ethnic Meals of 2006 (Orange County)

Earlier this week, I received an email from Lindsay William-Ross, Food Editor for LAist, inviting me to participate in their end-of-the-year Ten Best series. After no small amount of agonizing, I've put together a list of Orange County places where I had the ten best "ethnic" meals this year. (Read this article on LAist and check out their other great offerings!) 1. Japanese - Frenzy Sushi (my review) The freshness and quality of the fish served at Frenzy Sushi is amazing. The Hamachi no Hara (yellowtail belly), Saba (marinated mackerel), and Maguro (Bluefin tuna) are must-haves here. If you like rolls, order the Firecracker or Caterpillar. Frenzy Sushi 369 E 17th St, #17 Costa Mesa, CA 92627 1-949-646-1333 http://www.frenzysushi.com 2. Chinese (Shanghai) - New Shanghai (my review) Delightfully cheap and delicious, the fiery flavors of the Shanghai, Sichuan, and Hunan cuisine dishes served at New Shanghai are perfect for a cold winter's night. I highly recommend the Niu Rou Mian (Beef Noodle Soup), Gong Bao Ji Ding (Kung Pao Chicken), and Zhao Liu Yu Pian (Fish Filets in Wine Sauce). New Shanghai 5408 Walnut Ave # B Irvine, CA 92604 (Open until midnight every night.) 3. Vietnamese - Pagolac (my review) I first tried Bo Bay Mon (Seven Courses of Beef) at Pagolac and it was a dining revelation. Even better were the Bo Nuong Vi (Grilled Beef) and Tom Nuong Vi (Grilled Shrimp). Although you may be a little leery of sampling Mam Nem (fermented shrimp sauce), take the plunge and you'll experience a true flavor sensation. Pagolac 14580 Brookhurst St. Westminster, CA 92683 1-714-531-4740 4. Peruvian - Peruvian Kitchen (my review) Peruvian food is one of the world's ultimate fusion cuisines, and Peruvian Kitchen delivers the complex blend of flavors and influences for a very reasonable price. Try the Tiradito al Aji (a carpaccio of fish marinated in a spicy sauce), the Anticuchos de Corazon (grilled pieces of seasoned beef heart), and the Yucca a la Huancaina (cassava cheese puffs covered in a spicy cream sauce. Peruvian Kitchen 8610 Warner Ave. Fountain Valley, CA 92708-3132 1-714-847-7555 http://www.peruviankitchen.com 5. Fusion - Elephant Bar (my review) A chain restaurant with both style and substance, the Elephant Bar in Irvine offers a number of Asian-fusion dishes as well as Western classics. Try the Coconut Shrimp or the Miso Grilled Salmon. Additional locations are available throughout Southern California. Elephant Bar Irvine, CA 14346 Culver Dr. 1-949-651-6087 http://www.elephantbar.com 6. Mexican - Lucia's Tacos and Mulitas (my review) Do not be dissuaded by this hole-in-the-wall's less than classy atmosphere. Lucia's Tacos and Mulitas is packed to the gills with authentic Mexican flavors. You haven't lived until you've tried their Tacos de Cabeza (beef cheek), Tacos de Lengua (beef tongue), or Tacos al Pastor (rotisserie grilled pork). For an early morning pick-me-up, grab a steaming bowl of their spicy Menudo (beef tripe soup) and get some Pan Dulse (sweet buns) to go. Lucia's Tacos and Mulitas (corner of Beach and Warner) 16952 Beach Blvd. Huntington Beach, CA 92647 1-714-842-2404 (If you have difficulty being understood, ask for Lalo.) 7.Korean - Korea House BBQ (review forthcoming) Nothing warms both body and soul like the rich flavors of the Korean food at Korea House BBQ. With fresh, high quality meat, an excellent selection of complimentary Panchan (cold side dishes), a number of fiery stews, and other classic offerings, Korea House BBQ is the place to go when you want to add some spice to your life. Order up some Ross Gui (prime cut beef) or Bulgogi (marinated beef) to grill and kick back with a beer. Definitely best enjoyed with a group. Korea House BBQ 5305 University Dr. Irvine, CA 92612 1-949-552-9998 http://www.koreahousebbq.com/ 8. Chinese (Dim Sum) - Seafood World (review forthcoming) Seafood World is a Little Saigon institution, and one of the best places in Orange County to get delectable dim sum. Bring all of your friends so you can sample lots and lots of the bite-sized delights. Seafood World 15351 Brookhurst St # 101-106 Westminster, CA 92683 1-714-531-5330 9. Vegan (Thai) - Wheel of Life (review forthcoming) If you've never had vegan Thai cuisine before, stop by Wheel of Life and get your healthy groove on. With a culinary history spanning thousands of years of Buddhist dietary observances, vegan Thai food is good for both the body and soul. Wheel Of Life 14370 Culver Dr # 2 Irvine, CA 92604 1-949-551-8222 http://www.wheelofliferestaurant.com/ 10. Chinese (Islamic) - Lotus Chinese Eatery (my review) One of two locations in all of Orange County serving Islamic Chinese fare, Lotus brings the flavors of Northern China to Southern California. All of their delicious food is prepared according Halal guidelines. Order the Zhi Ma Da Bing Jia Cong (sesame pan bread with green onions) or any of their Chao Dao Xiao Mian (stir-fried knife-cut noodles). I'm also very fond of their Hong Shao Dou Fu (tofu in brown sauce). Lotus Chinese Eatery 16883 Beach Blvd. Huntington Beach, CA 92647 1-714-848-4940