Red Mango - Irvine, CA

I'm a culinary skeptic. Whenever I hear about a new food fad, Sprinkles, Pinkberry, South Beach, or Atkins to name a few, my gut reaction is doubt. As the frozen yogurt craze that swept Los Angeles trickled into Orange County, I was determined not to be taken in, resisting cajoling, bribery, and other forms of peer pressure. However, I was eventually lured to the Dark Side through the clever application of a 50%-off coupon by family-run Beach Cities Yogurt & Gelato in Huntington Beach. Curse my Taiwanese penny-pinching genes! When friend, OC Weekly columnist, and fellow Orange County Food Blogs contributor Elmomonster broke the news that the Red Mango yogurt chain had arrived in Irvine, I knew I had to pay them a visit. A Korean franchise business, Red Mango was purportedly the inspiration for the first Pinkberry operation in LA. Pinkberry went on to spark a frozen yogurt fad that, as the LA Times quipped, launched 1,000 parking tickets. The first thing that struck me when I stepped into Red Mango's Irvine location was the sparseness of the decor. Despite the futuristic furniture and brightly colored posters, the shop was unable to escape the chilly, antiseptic, freshly mopped atmosphere that permeates most purveyors of chilled desserts. It's a disconcertingly soulless feeling. I was also surprised by how Spartan the menu was. Two types of frozen yogurt, Original or Green Tea, and a double row of toppings dished up by the youthful staff. It was a far from the self-serve, weigh-to-pay frozen yogurt model I'd grown accustomed to. I ordered a 4oz Green Tea frozen yogurt ($3.50) with two toppings ($1.25); blueberries and mochi bits. With my first bite, it was evident that Red Mango's frozen yogurt was a high quality product. Full-flavored, gently sour, and with a smooth mouth-feel, it filled my mouth with a creamy presence. The blueberries were fresh and sweet, popping like juice-filled bubbles. The mochi had a pleasantly chewy texture that added body to the dessert. However, as I finished my frozen yogurt, the other flavors faded, leaving only the sourness behind. 4oz is half of a cup, an amount of food roughly equivalent to what can be held in the palm of one cupped hand. Breaking it down to cost per unit, I'd paid about $1 per ounce, not counting the additional money added on for toppings. By way of comparison, the other frozen yogurt chain in Irvine, Yogurtland, charged 30¢ per ounce, had 3-4 types of tart and an additional 4-6 other frozen yogurt flavors, and a self-serve toppings bar with more options. There was a difference in quality to be sure, but it wasn't great enough to justify a 300% markup. I like Red Mango and I may end up there once or twice a year. But, I have serious reservations about its ability to compete for market share in the frozen yogurt niche. With places like Beach Cities Yogurt & Gelato and Yogurtland offering better return on investment, and with the name recognition of the ever-expanding Pinkberry juggernaut, Red Mango may find drawing cost-conscious customers difficult in the current economic slump. Red Mango 17595 Harvard Ave Irvine, CA 92614 1-949-955-0333 Red Mango USA website

Blue Coral - Newport Beach/Gelato Paradiso - Corona del Mar

Well, it's blue.... Kidding! Since the opening of Paul Fleming's newest OC concept, we've been back about once a quarter to pay our respects. For us, that's a compliment. Repeat performanes are few and far between, since we are always looking for the next culinary adventure (that was not a reference to David Wilhelm). From the P.F. in P.F Chang's to the Fleming in Fleming's, his chains appear to have a steady following. Our favorite dining companion, Joshua, was back in school, and we wanted to provide a friendly reminder of life outside of budget restraints. This is our story. Friday night, 6:30. We pull up to Fashion Island and as usual, the parking gods were looking down on Jack as a space became free. Take that, three cars behind us! We spend a few outside while Joshua has a smoke. I appreciated the chairs and benches flanking its entrance while we chilled. Making our way inside, the familiar sights and sounds greeted us. Their illuminated wall of vodka, duo flat screens projecting behind cascading 'walls' of water, and the tiles. I love the tiles. If I had a HGTV bathroom redux, these oceanic blues would be my muse. But I digress. Michael welcomes us. Instead of specials, he provides an overview of his favorites for our consideration. We deliberate over sides to share and make our final decisions. It is time to order.....just as soon as I select my cocktail. Their selection of lemonades and mojitos do not disappoint. Yes, as much as I love tiles, I heart lemonades & mojitos even more. I select a lemongrass lemonade, accented with muddled basil. Refreshing! Joshua indulges with a little Ciroc vodka. Before our flaky biscuits and creamy sweet butter can overpower us, appetizers make an appearance. Fanny Bay oysters salute us on a throne of ice with a bloody mary granita. Steamer clams join in with their intoxicating aromatics of white wine and garlic. After a sampling of both, I conclude that I am still not a fan of oysters (more for Joshua) and clams make delish comfort food (especially when cooked with pancetta). The men polish off the shellfish while I sit back in our coveted seashell highbacked booth and peoplewatch. Dinner consists of three distinct dishes. At one end, we have the signature cioppino. Colossal shrimp, jumbo sea scallops, Alaskan king crab, Manila clams, p.e.i. mussels, and fresh fish in a tomatoey broth. There's no doubt in my mind that he will enjoy his meal. Upon Mike's recommendation, Joshua receives the sea scallops. The meyer lemon glaze enhances the overall flavor and wins him over. I took a chance and welcomed the Pacific wild swordfish 'Oscar style'. Who is this Oscar, and why is he styling my plate? Oh, you mean it's a mix of crab meat and hollandaise? Well, okay then. Oscar was a savory treat. The fish itself was dense and moist with flavor. Portion control was on the money for all three entrees. On the side, we helmed an aerial assault on white truffled french fries. Per the kitchen's suggestion, we allowed a shower of grated parmesan to invade as well. Not as tasty as Stonehill Tavern, but it will do. The grilled farmer's market vegetables gave me a flashback of a meal at the Versailles chain when I requested a tomato salad, and I got sliced tomatoes with a sprig of basil. Our plate consisted of half a tomato, a few genetically enhanced asparagus spears (kidding!?), halved zucchini and Japanese eggplant, and a thickly sliced portobello cap. Their balsamic flavor provided a welcome subtle kick. Anytime we're in the Newport area, our Kryptonite resides under the alias Gelato Paradiso. Their flagship location can't decide if they want to be more Newport or CDM, as you'll see from the address. There is ALWAYS a line here, and for good reason. Our friends agree it can hold its own with their overseas counterparts. Our first time there since the recent remodel, we noted rich browns enhancing the countertops and flavor signage. The light and dark chocolate hazelnuts (Gianduia and Bacio) looked enticing. Oh, and pumpkin was in the house! Ah, my first pumpkin treat of the season. It passed the time with a traditional hazelnut (Nicciola). Jack went for a mediano menta/mint chip plus dolce de leche/caramel. Joshua kept up with us and ordered pistachio. We strolled thru the aisles of Bristol Farms while savoring each spoonful. A fantastic flavor-filled evening came to a close. Blue Coral Seafood and Spirits (Fashion Island) 451 Newport Center Drive Newport Beach 949.856.2583 http://www.bluecoralseafood.com/ Gelato Paradiso (Corona del Mar Plaza) 951 Avocado Avenue Newport Beach 949.640.9256 http://www.gelatoparadiso.net/

Beverly's Best Bakery

Tucked in among a non-descript little strip mall lies perhaps Fullerton’s best bakery. Known best for their wedding cakes, this bakery has expanded their repertoire of baked goods as years pass by. Owned by two sisters who struggled to make ends meat when first starting out the bakery has expanded into what is essentially a “locals” bakery. Almost like Cheers, where everybody knows your name. The Chocolate Chip Scone is unlike any other I’ve had. Crusty and flaky on the outside, it is light and delicate on the inside, almost muffin like. The mini chocolate chips melt almost instantaneously and are very subtle in flavor. In fact, if you had your eyes closed, you probably wouldn’t even know they were there. The Mini Tiramisu comes in its own self contained dark chocolate cup. On top of a round disc of sponge cake, brushed with espresso and alcohol, lies a creamy mix of tangy mascarpone cheese. Whipped cream dusted with cocoa powder finish the presentation. This is a nice little dessert and certainly lives up to its literal translation, “pick me up”. The only complaint I have about this decadent dessert is that the dark chocolate on the bottom of the cup is rather thick and dominates the palate if bitten into. The Chocolate Swirl Cheesecake is a New York style cheesecake that is very dense, creamy and a little tangy. The crust is a nice thick graham cracker crust on the bottom and much thinner on the sides. What seemed odd about the dessert is that it had a gelatinous texture and taste on the top, like many Asian desserts, which distracted from the rest of the cheesecake. The Mexican Wedding Cookie, or Russian Tea Cookie, looks like the Barry Bonds of this type of cookie, i.e., it looks likes it gone through a cycle of steroid. The thing is huge. It’s about the size of a Hostess Snowball. This classic cookie is akin to a shortbread cookie. It’s buttery and vanilla flavor explodes on the palate. There are also ground almonds, which are actually much larger than the cookies that I have had in the past. The larger sized almond pieces was a pleasant surprised because it gave the cookie a nuttier taste. The only thing that I did not like about this cookie was that it was heavily sprinkled with powdered sugar which made it a little too sweet. The Brownie has a nice thick, crunchy crust. Underneath lies a rich chocolatey concoction that is both cakey and fudgy at the same time. The outer parts of the brownie are more cakey, while the center is nicely sticky and fudgy. The brownie is topped in what tastes like a light carmel glaze with walnuts and mini chocolate chips. The Coconut Raspberry Crumble is a nice combination of flavors and textures. The bottom consists a crumbly pastry with oatmeal in it. The filling is a thick, raspberry jam that contains seeds for added texture. There is a crumble topping that is slightly sweet. Toasted coconut tops everything and gives it a nice nutty flavor. This is a nice light dessert that is not overly sweet. The Lemon Bar has a flaky and buttery crust and is filled with a sweet, yet tangy lemon curd. The entire bar is dusted with powdered sugar. This sort of tastes like an enclosed Lemon Meringue Pie without the meringue. The tartness from the lemons is refreshing while not being overly sweet. The Pumpkin Coffee Cake tastes like an ordinary coffee cake on the top, but underneath lies a thin layer of spiced pumpkin filling. The crumble topping is dusted with powdered sugar, but does not make the dessert overly sweet. This is a new take on the classic Pumpkin Pie. Beverly’s Best Bakery 3020 N. Brea Blvd. Fullerton, CA 92835 (714) 529-3989

Frozen Yogurt Craze Sweeps Orange County

Looks like Squeeze OC is jumping on the froyo bandwagon. Their latest online edition contains a list of Pinkberry and Pinkberry knockoffs in Orange County. Prepare to descend into froyo madness. When one of those hits Fashion Island or the Spectrum, I'm throwing in my towel. Resistance is futile.

Beach Cities Yogurt & Gelato (Grand Opening) - Huntington Beach, CA

Looks like it's Frozen Yogurt Week here on OC Food Blogs. Breaking news via CP FoodWire: Beach Cities Yogurt & Gelato is holding its Grand Opening this week. Located near the corner of Beach and Warner, it has set itself us as a direct competitor to the popular Golden Spoon franchise less than a block away. Beach Cities seems to be counting on its healthy frozen yogurt toppings to attract business from the nearby Huntington Plaza office tower. That's a tall order given the convenience and popularity of the Golden Spoon located at the tower's base. Will moribund office workers, such as myself, be motivated enough to walk the extra block for a slightly different product? My guess is no, but we'll see. According to my friend and fellow manager, Happy Hour, Beach Cities was completely empty today at lunchtime. Beach Cities Yogurt & Gelato offers self-serve yogurt with 12 flavors that rotate monthly. The yogurt and toppings cost $0.30 per ounce. For a limited time, Beach Cities is offering the first three ounces for free. But, don't try to get just three ounces. Happy Hour said the owner got a bit tetchy when he asked for the free, three-ounce portion. I'll review this spot sometime in the next few weeks for Chubbypanda - The Epicurious Wanderer. Free wireless Internet access is available for all customers. (Edit 05/17/2007: Read my full, much more favorable review of Beach Cities Yogurt & Gelato here. Happy Hour and I are now regular customers.) Beach Cities Yogurt & Gelato 16895 Beach Boulevard Huntington Beach, CA 92647 1-714-841-3868

New Pinkberry-clone in Costa Mesa

It seems the frozen yogurt phenomenon is finally spreading like a contagious rash down in our area. This one's going to be located next to Video Tokyo, in the same plaza as Hashigo and Oki Doki, on Paularino and Bristol. The flapping banner reads: "COMING SOON: Fresh Berries and Yogurt"

CeFiore - Newport Beach

Orange County residents who've been waiting for pricey tart frozen yogurt with fresh fruit toppings served in trendy cafe-like settings need wait no more. No, sorry, you're not getting a Pinkberry yet. But CeFiore, owned by sushi buffet chain Todai, is opening in Newport Beach on Saturday, April 28. If you haven't had Pinkberry, you'll probably be quite pleased with this slightly tarty non-fat frozen yogurt with a selection of fresh fruit, nuts, and cereal toppings. And if you have had Pinkberry, well, this is pretty darn close to flavor, and a whole lot closer in distance. For a general idea, you can read my review of the Little Tokyo CeFiore . CeFiore 3305 Newport Blvd. #8 Newport Beach, CA 92663 949-566-0048

Yogurtland to open in Irvine

Looks like the Irvine Yogurtland is well on its way to being finished. Judging by the location, right next door to Taiko, it will be a madhouse when it finally swings its doors open. I can picture it now: lines out the door, yogurt machines overtaxed, chopped fruit supplies low. It's going to be awesome!

Sprinkles, Fact or Fiction

I'd read about Sprinkles first on The Delicious Life! where she blasted the poor cupcakes as just the latest example of fad theory. Fad theory and rumor theory, with the epicenter being Beverly Hills, and the hinterlands being represented by our very own Newport Beach. So when I found myself just doors away from the store a few nights ago, I had to find out for myself! The store itself reminds me more of Chuao Chocolatier, with a fairly shallow storefront hiding what are hopefully the Oompa Loompas and assorted magick implements in the back. What storefront there is, is dedicated to row upon row of cupcake dish trays, filled with near uniform renditions of each flavor, identified by small, brightly colored sugar-wafer circles that match up with the menu board above. I'd read that the lines were out the door for this place, but I got there in the evening, on a weekday, when it was drizzling, and so what customers there were, fit inside that night. And of course, the hordes seemed to have gotten there already, as many of the cupcake trays were empty, and they were down to only a handful of the interesting flavors, like coconut and banana. They seem to operate on the same menu principle as Strickland's Ice Cream, with their subset of flavors per day, hopefully getting you to come back on multiple days to try them all. I got six that night. I figured hey, when would I be back down this way? Verdict: almost insanely sweet. Jaw throbbingly, Pavlovian saliva-gland trippin' sweet. Hard to distinguish between flavors sweet. My kids were split- one loved the frosting so much that's all he ate, the other seemed to prefer the cake portion. I ate a bit of the dark chocolate, the coconut, a bit of banana, and a bit of carrot, but really I'd be hard pressed to tell which was which, in a blind taste test. They were good cupcakes- moist and spongy in the right place, with a frosting that had both the crispy sensation when biting into it as well as the melt-on-the-tongue fluidity that I like. I just couldn't taste beyond the sugar. They say that your taste buds die off and become less sensitive as you age, which, paradoxically, makes you more finicky and prone to notice nuances in flavor. There weren't any nuances here for me- it was as sure a blood-sugar-busting pick-me-up as, well, Jolt Cola. I was fortunate that my children didn't bounce off the walls all night long. (Or maybe they did, and I was just too sugar-low'd to notice) Sprinkles Cupcakes Corona Del Mar Plaza 944 Avocade Ave Newport Beach, CA 92660 (949) 760-0003

Thach Che Hien Khanh - Westminster (Little Saigon)

Che, this Vietnamese gelatinous, tapioca-filled, coconut milk dessert is rather hard to describe for the uninitiated. Is it a dessert pudding? Dessert soup? It can be eaten warm or iced. It serves as dessert or a light snack. No matter what you call it or when you eat it, Thach Che Hien Khanh is the place to go in Little Saigon for the best and largest selection of che. Thach Che Hien Khanh started as a small cafeteria-line style eatery (it's too small to really call it a restaurant) at 9784 Westminster Avenue in a tiny strip mall with only a few other shops. The lines used to go out the door and the cars overfilled the parking lot. Back then, two people were needed -- one person to fight through the hordes to grab some che, a second person to wait in the car because there was no parking available. Thankfully, Thach Che Hien Khanh opened another location inside the Today Plaza on Bolsa Avenue in the heart of Little Saigon. This location, in the same strip mall as the always popular Quan Hy Vietnamese Restaurant and Banh Cuon Tay Ho 4, is convenient as a quick stop after eating at either of the two restaurants. But again, it's just a little eatery. There are no tables or chairs. Or menus for that matter. Grab drinks or flan or yogurt from the refrigerators first if you want them. Then line up and point to what you want. All their che offerings are on large metal trays behind glass. The milky che are variations of taro, banana, plantains, corn, with coconut milk and tapioca pearls with a sprinkling of sesame seeds and crushed peanuts on top. Che sam bo luong is a "healthier" offering with seaweed, lotus seeds, and dates. Che troi nuoc, small dough balls in ginger syrup, with or without mung bean filling. Che ba mau, three color che, usually features red bean, green doughy strips, and white bean or mung bean. Che Thai features lychees and jackfruit. Sticky rice with lap xuong (Chinese sausage). Sticky rice with corn. On this particular afternoon, I opted for xoi nep than (charcoal rice), black sticky rice with mung bean and coconut shavings. Coconut milk is served on the side. The sticky rice is studded with large slices of lap xuong and shredded chicken and scallions. The banana che (starting from the far left) featured bananas, mashed taro, along with tapioca pearls, tapioca strips, coconut, and a light dusting of sesame seeds and crushed peanuts on top. The plantain che held their shape better than regular bananas. And corn che is mixed with sticky rice, coconut milk is served on the side. Each item is $1.75. I've never been charged more than that for anything, but, just in case, I hesitate to say everything is that price. Che should be eaten right away for freshness. Or refrigerated for later. And in the quirky hodgepodge of cultures and cuisines that we call Southern California. The kitchen workers are Latino and Spanish music can often be heard from the back, while Vietnamese workers are in front. And adapting to the Taiwanese craze for boba that's gone mainstream, you can also add that to your che too. Just ask. Same goes for ice. Otherwise, che is served at room temperature. Thach Che Hien Khanh 9639 Bolsa Ave., #A Westminster, CA 92683 714-839-8143