Top 10 Sushi Restaurants in South OC [Updated]

In the interest of inciting controversy, here is the Top 10 Sushi Restaurants in South OC. We're talking strictly on the quality of the sushi. And indeed, this list is based on purely objective, scientific criteria, and the relative rankings are inviolate. ;-) However, if there is a restaurant missing, there is indeed the possibility that I haven't eaten there, although the likelier possibility is that it didn't make the cut. Sorry. [Update: And of course, thanks Zach for reminding me of a place that indeed was missing, but that I had eaten at. :-) ] Update April 1, 2009: Dropped Bluefin due to declining quality, moved Ayame up for inventive omakase. Update March 26, 2010: Dropped Ayame due to change in head chef. Added Ohshima in Orange. Sushi Wasabi, Tustin. The king of them all down here. Yes, the restaurant is inexplicably closed for weeks at a time around major holidays in an unpredictable fashion. Yes, the restaurant is inexplicably closed at lunch well before the the posted closing time. But the quality of the fish is outstanding. The best we've had by a significant margin. The blue crab hand roll is sublime, with the crunch of the nori and creamy, but not too creamy filling next to the warm and lightly vinegary sushi rice. Right now is apparently ankimo (monkfish liver) season, which makes it especially tasty. You also don't want to miss the Kumamoto oysters, tiny oysters perched on columns of salt, served with ponzu sauce. These are the only oysters I'll eat. "Tuna from Japan ... Oysters from Seattle ... Uni from Santa Barbara" I can hear their voices in my dreams, sometimes. Then I know it's time to eat. My review, Elmo's. Ikko, Costa Mesa. Funky interior, with a signature of Hideki Matsui inset in the wall with its own lighting. The menu is as long as it is incomprehensible. Let the itamae serve you until you're full or broke, whichever comes first. Imaginative sushi, and in the times we've eaten there, never a wrong note, never a stray bit of gristle, never an off taste. Sushi Murasaki, Santa Ana. Dark horse contender. A neighborhood sushi joint, almost looks like the current ownership took it over from a failed sushi restaurant before, and barely remade anything of the interior. Where they do spend time and attention is on the quality of the fish. Kind of like a Matsuhisa-lite, with a focus on special sauces for each fish, and an affinity for the blowtorch. Don't even bother filling your soy sauce plate if you order the omakase. :-) Shibucho, Costa Mesa. Value king. Amazing prices for the quality in a tiny little postage stamp sized restaurant. Maybe it seats 20. Usually less, with little "Reserved" placards on the tables often taking up two of the (three?) tables. Family business, Shibutani-san, his son, and his wife serving large slabs of fresh fish. If you sit at a table and ask for omakase, it comes on a large plate all at once. Sit at the bar for that if you can. My review, Elmo's. [Dropped from 3 to 5 on April 1] Bluefin, Newport Coast. Takashi Abe demonstrating that you just can't make the dishes without him. Namesake "Abe" didn't survive his departure Bluefin is a smaller space, furnished in a modern style with a sushi bar that literally glows from within. If only they'd spent a little more on sound baffling. The raging egos of the customers cause name-dropping, n-figure dollar conversations to crash like waves on a pier, making this not the space for intimate conversation. However, the originality of his creations, and the beauty of the presentation are a sight to behold. Would be ranked higher if not for occasional inconsistency in quality of the fish, ranging from sublime to merely "good" on occasion. For the prices, fear of the occasional "good" drops Bluefin a notch. Unfortunately, inconsistency is starting to look like a pattern of diminishing returns. My review, Elmo's. [Added Feb 16] Maki-Zushi, Tustin. Indeed I forgot this restaurant, but had eaten there several times. Not recently though, and even now, I'm not ranking it as highly as the best of the fish served would otherwise indicate, and here's why: it's kind of Frankensteinian. I mean, there's the Live menu, which contains some of the best, and most far-flung sushi varieties you're likely to find anywhere, much less anywhere in OC. The razor clam and the fresh uni stand out especially in my mind. And then, there's what seems to be the menu for the rest of 'em, the plebes, including many of the bread and butter comfort food type sushi, like salmon, and tuna. These are occasionally dipping into kaiten-sushi quality, which is almost understandable, given the sushi chef's previous stint at Frying Fish, which is a long-lived restaurant in Little Tokyo. It's almost like Sakamoto-san was a bit fearful about losing any customers, and instead has a restaurant that caters to all of them, and yet not me, by extension. Because I usually want a sublime piece of salmon and yellowtail to go along with my exotic varieties. Elmo's review. [Added March 26, 2010] Ohshima, Orange. In the grand tradition of bland strip-mall exteriors leading to another world on the other side of the noren, this small sushi bar with a few tables is not much larger than Shibucho. Sit at the bar, and peruse the specials board and read about an amazing variety of fresh fish you will not often find elsewhere. Some of them you will, and some of them have interesting translations into English that will seem unfamiliar. However, the fish is wonderful, and the chef's take is a unique blend of the traditional and the modern. Angotei, Costa Mesa. In the little strip mall that fronts Mitsuwa Marketplace. Another of the neighborhood type joints that just does sushi right. I visit fairly rarely, and on occasion get the feeling that this is another of the places where you're better off having "paid your dues", so to speak. When the sushi chefs know you, your service is a bit faster, and the fish is a bit better. This is generally true, but more so in some places than others. Koi-san, Orange. Classic sushi, a bit ponzu-happy, but on the whole quite good. At #9, we're talking more "good" than great, but it's a decent restaurant at a reasonable price. Not too crowded either, which is a plus for me. Hamamori, Costa Mesa. Okay, James Hamamori puts his best foot forward for his eponymous South Coast location. His best foot forward is basically a cut above his Wasa locations. I'd guess perhaps this is what his Wasa locations were like in the very beginning, perhaps. The ishiyaki beef is fragrant and tasty, and there are a few Sushi Treasures which are unique to this location, including copious amounts of caviar. The restaurant itself is beautiful, tall windows and bright lights, clean white decor. Costs are sky high, but occasionally good deals present themselves during restaurant weeks. My Restaurant Week review. Wasa, Irvine. Maybe it's the sentimental favorite- I admit it's primarily nearby and convenient. The service is hit or miss, since they're perpetually understaffed, but during the week, the sushi can range from "good" to "pretty good". They also serve tempura ice cream, which gets them bonus points, and their shrimp tempura is also pretty good. [Dropped March 28, 2010. Moved from 8 to 7 on April 1, 2009] Ayame, Irvine. Our neighborhood place. It started off a bit rocky, being an outpost of Zipangu in the Lab at Costa Mesa, but has come into its own. Their $28 3-course omakase tends to come with a sashimi salad option, a full sized entree, and a dessert. Good value. Their $65 6-course omakase is a steal, usually costing much closer to $100 for the quality of the courses. They've expanded the kinds of fish they serve, and last time I ate there, I actually had a couple of fish I'd never heard of. Which rarely happens these days. Butterfly fish? Anyway, it tasted pretty good. Their amaebi (sweet shrimp) is often fresh, occasionally sitting in a little basket right by the sushi bar. Service at the tables is just as good as at the bar, and so it's convenient for eating with the kids. My review, Griffin's. So there you have it. Let me know if I've missed anything- I'd love more than anything to push a few entries down the list. Hopefully I've listed a few that you haven't tried (Murasaki?), that you may enjoy.

Pelican Grill - Newport Coast

When a friend suggested we stop by for lunch last month, I was elated. The Resort at Pelican Hill (golf and dining only, no resort rooms until 2008) had reopened only the week before. I knew that only those who've been keeping an eye out would be in attendance. Driving along PCH and down the coast was calming. We rolled down the windows and enjoyed the remaining warmth of autumn weather. Before two years of renovations began, the original dining room was perched with a magnificient view of the Pacific. Now, we discover that a new structure (quite a bit) further away houses their dining options. Our server explains the previous space will be rented out for weddings and special events, plus act as storage for facilities. Nevertheless, it is a grand sight to behold. It's themed as an Italian villa. Creams and golds lighten and heighten the richness of our surroundings. As we approach the hostess, we are presented with Choose Your Own Adventure. The ridiculously plush dining room on our left, or the equally impressive but far more casual bar on the right? After going back and forth, we ultimately request and receive a patio dining table. The breathtaking view is what everyone expects when they are seated, and that's what we were getting. Below us, the occassional cart would drive over a connecting bridge leading to the first tee. I half expected Robin Leach to begin his voiceover.... Chef Thomas Ryan's background includes studies at the CIA and a resume featuring Ritz-Carlton and Hilton brands. I can only hope his presence was reflected in our lunches. As we settle into our cushioned chaises, a glass of vino only seems fitting. "Cancel the ice tea!" Upon recommendation, we toast our Esca Pinot Grigio, sigh, and await our meals. I find myself gazing at the lattice work above and eavesdropping on the conversation next to us. A foursome of golfers is namedropping and doing their best to outdo each other. Ah, Newport. He settled for the ten ounce fresh ground turkey burger ($17) with cheddar. I liked the alternatives of Jarlsberg or Point Reyes blue. The patty was rich and flavorful. I opted for the cedar roasted Pacific swordfish sandwich ($20) with lemon mayonnaise. To keep with our 'healthy' kick, we chose a serving of red oak, frisee, and butter lettuce with shallot vinaigrette to complete our meals (included with the entrees). Everything was succulent without being filling. Chef Ryan knew his body-conscious clientele well. Other notable items include: * Agnolotti pasta - curried lobster, green apple and tomatillo vinaigrette * Tempura red king crab classic Louis - prawns, sun ripened tomato, organic lettuce and creamy brandied dressing * Slow roasted oregano chicken from the olive wood oven * Trio of chocolate (ask the server) * Butter scotch peanut butter ice cream Afterwards, we strolled the grounds and found the practice range, golf shop, and Caffe II. Caffe II provides a modest selection of refreshment in the form of custom sandwiches, fruit, hot (tea) & cold (beer) beverages, and even yogurt or hot dogs. Champagne wishes and caviar dreams for those who do not mind pocketing a $75 lunch. Did I mention valet is complimentary? Pelican Grill 22800 Pelican Hill Road South 877.735.4226 http://www.pelicanhill.com/

Sage on the Coast - Newport Beach

It was a lazy Sunday afternoon, and I was starving as usual. I was still craving eggs. Brunch buffet was not the answer, but what would still be serving my kind of fare at 1:30pm? I went for it and took off to Crystal Cove. I've been to their other outpost at Eastbluff for lunch before, so I had a good idea of what to expect. Crystal Cove is a great find. You've got Mastro's Ocean Club, Javiers (soon. or is it already open?), Pacific Whey Cafe, Bluefin and Sage to keep you company. Parking is plentiful enough, and down the street is the (Ruby's) Shake Shack and Beachcomber Cafe right on the beach. Yes, there are some options in the neighborhood. I'm not the kind of person who wants to knock a place. However, I'm going to flex my non-conformist bone and share a less than stellar experience. I mean, it takes a lot to mess up breakfast. We were seated in the main dining room. A couple of groups were enjoying their mimosa-induced laughter on the patio. There was only one other table being serviced inside. We waited between five and ten minutes before someone even acknowledged us. That should've been my cue. The s/o was already getting miffed. Interior-wise, it was open and airy. Everything was very ....green. Not a bad thing, it was the only thing I could really remember. Floor to ceiling windows brought in the outside sun. The patio looked inviting. For $8 he chose a seasonal fruit plate. Yeah. It was a few sliced strawberries and some melon. Disappointing, to say the least. Did I mention that it came towards the very end of our meal? He hoped the French toast (that wasn't close to the online menu description) would carry redeeming qualities. The one specific request he asked for, syrup on the side, couldn't even be met. Good grief. I couldn't find the banana pancakes anywhere, and settled for the mushroom, leek, and asiago cheese omelet. What a disaster. It was like a poorly assembled burrito. The cheese was lumped in one section, and the leeks were nowhere to be found. I requested some double smoked bacon. It was burnt to a crisp. Black around the edges. Blech. Things were so disappointing that after spending $50+ on nothing special we walked over to Pacific Whey and munched on french toast and pastries for another $10 to satisfy us. Who would've thunk that such a nice place for lunch and drinks could serve such a mediocre meal? That would be me. Crystal Cove Promenade 7862 East Pacific Coast Highway 949.715.7243

Bluefin, Newport Coast

Bluefin is Chef Takashi Abe's restaurant in Newport Coast. I remember when I moved to Irvine, I had read raves about his former restaurant in Newport Beach, the eponymous Abe. But by the time I finally managed to get there, he had recently sold out to a kindly, but less capable restauranteur. The decor on the outside was little bit run-down. I could see cracks in the concrete steps, and rust in the lamps. The dishes there looked like the pictures adorning the walls, carefully prepared and presented dishes, blown up to 11x14. But they tasted like a little something was missing- almost bland. The temperatures were off- sometimes you can guess that a dish should have had hot and cold components, and if they're left just a bit too close together, a bit too long, they become uniformly warm. Not so good. And really, all this did for me was to put a question in my mind about whether the food had been better before or not. Maybe this Abe guy had seen better days. Those questions were answered the first time I ate at Bluefin. Bluefin was the new restaurant- a bit smaller than the old one, no longer free-standing, but instead a member of the Crystal Cove Promenade. It is a long rectangular space, carved on one side into tables, and on the other into a lengthy sushi bar with a translucent illuminated stone ledge, and a ridged water sculpture behind the chefs. The effect is dark (so much so that I had a bit of difficulty seeing what I was eating, and actually swallowed gold flakes on a dish without being able to appreciate them visually first), modern, and sleek, not at all aged or worn. The food was sublime. I rate Bluefin at the very top of the contemporary, fusion Japanese cuisine in Orange County (Sushi Wasabi gets that nod for more traditional sushi). We've been there three times now, over the years, the most recent time just this week. Each time we have the omakase, which at Bluefin is a 6-course menu including an appetizer sampler, sashimi salad, two cooked dishes, sushi, and dessert. They differ quite a bit each time, but my wife and I agreed that last night's was the best we've had. For me, the highlights were the sliced duck breast, held into place by a dollop of mashed potatoes, topped with a rich, soft, perfectly cooked (read: not overcooked) serving of foie gras. I had to deconstruct its tower of greens to eat it, but Miss Manners has my back on that one. Also excellent was the lobster appetizer, which was in a sauce that I still cannot quite describe, other than to say that it was a light cream sauce that accentuated that crisp snap you feel when jawing into a freshly cooked piece of lobster tail. Yum. My only complaint, if you can call it that, was that the dressing in the sashimi salad, while good, masked a bit the very freshness of the fish included. Several thin slices of hamachi and It almost seems a shame to mask the very high quality of the fish at all, so you can imagine the inner horror I experienced when my neighbor, a very kindly older gentleman, asked Chef Daisuke to chop up "live scallop" (bought live, shucked that very morning, returned to its shell for serving) into little bits, and mix it with lots of green onions, masago, and a spritz of lemon. Any other place, and this would be a great way to enjoy scallop- but it was live, that morning! In the sushi platter, the stars were the ruby red maguro (tuna), and the smooth uni. This maguro was so richly dense and completely lacking in any kind of fiber, that it almost seemed like it wasn't a fish at all. The uni was clearly uni, but without the fishiness and liquidity that make it unpalatable at lesser places. I traded my piece of mirugai for a second piece of the albacore, which instead of being drenched in ponzu, was topped with almost like a light tartar sauce. It was intriguing, and I wouldn't mind having that again. Dessert: this was a dollop of vanilla ice cream, served in a tiny fish shaped bowl atop a much larger plate that had berry reductions around its rim. Sharing the plate was a martini glass filled with ever so light clear gelatin that was so soft that it practically melted in my mouth. It was lightly sweetened, had more than a hint of yuzu and alcohol, and was topped with fruit. Like an amuse bouche, but at the end of the meal. A refreshing way to end the meal. And just so I don't leave my poor neighbor, who actually was very entertaining company, and spoke a few phrases in Japanese surprisingly well ("mou chotto gari kudasai", although I might have chosen "sukoshi"), coming off seeming like a rube, he left us with a parting piece of advice on finding out we were young parents: "If you can teach your kids two things, they'll be fine: one, 'life isn't fair', and two, 'I don't deserve'." I'm still kicking that one around in my head three days later. Elmomonster's yummy review.